Beth Gallaway
The six tables at Taan are draped in white tablecloths and adorned with sparkling glassware. On a recent Saturday evening, only three of the six tables were occupied; the waitron/host Nikki said they could probably accommodate us for dinner, checked with the chef, and said as long as we didn't mind waiting, they'd be happy to serve us. We didn't mind waiting for cooked to order food! I ordered a glass of rose ($8). After we ordered, we were served a delightful amuse bouche that my husband pronounced "the best gyoza I've ever had." The contrast of textures (crispy shell with soft savory filling), temperatures (hot fried dumpling and cold salad), and flavors (chicken and vegetables, the spicy sweet dressing) were perfectly paired.
He ordered Tom Gha Gai -- Thai Coconut Chicken Soup ($15), and I ordered Laab Gai -- Thai Salad ($15). We'd agreed to share, but swapped 1/3 through, because the lettuce cups were too spicy for my milder palate (though, the taste was amazing!). The soup was exquisite: shreds of white meat chicken with halved sweet, tangy cherry tomatoes, tiny mushroom quarters, and slivered shallots is the most flavorful coconutty, chickeny, lemongrassy broth I've ever had, with undercurrents of lime and ginger, garnished with sweet basil.
We were delighted to receive a sorbert course as a palate cleanser - it was cold, creamy, sweet, and delightful with a leafy green garnish. Next, the chef came out with sparkling rose for the table with a gentlemen celebrating his birthday. We all sang to our new friend, and then everyone got a glass of wine (90+ Cellars Lot 197 Prosecco Rose), an unexpected treat that paired perfectly with Gaeng Phed Ped Yang -- Roasted Duck Curry entree ($45) we'd selected: the prosecco's strawberry lemon tang cut through the succulent, fatty duck and creamy sauce. The duck was expertly cooked, with a perfect meat-to-fat ratio on each neat slice. Again, the flavor pairings were amazing: mild yellow peppers, sweet, non-stringy pineapple, and more sweet cherry tomatoes and basil. The entree was accompanied by a soup tureen of brownish-purple rice berries: a delicious toothy, nutty, satisfying accompaniment.
Executive Chef Jariya Wannapat came out to check on us and told us the rice berry is expensive but authentic, and very nutritious. All of the ingredients that could be local and organic were, and she was very proud that her traditional recipes did not include any GMOs, additives, or preservatives. Wannapat learned to cook from her mother, and worked in restaurants in San Francisco before returning to Thailand to attend culinary school.
Throughout the evening, Nikki provided classic white glove service, serving from the left and removing from the right, unobtrusively refilling water glasses, replacing a dropped napkin, and being attentive but not overly solicitous. Her warm greeting and introduction when we arrived made us feel like we were at a meal with friends, and the dinner, served family style, meant we could ask for seconds if we wished (the serving sizes were perfect and satisfying). We were, in fact, too full to choose one of the two fruit-forward desserts, and told Chef and Nikki we would return just to get dessert the next evening. The Chef asked us to pick one, and packed Mango Sticky Rice to go. We ate it about two hours later, and it was, again, perfectly balanced: sweet/sour, soft/firm, and likely, hot pudding/fruit when served. At room temperature, it was absolutely wonderful. The entire meal was gluten and dairy-free, and the presentations were fresh, simple, colorful, and attractive.
Taan: The Cuisine of Siam presents a delicious, thoughtful, sophisticated dining experience grounded in authenticity and attention to detail, for a very reasonable price. Every element of our meal and service was impeccable. I like Thai food, but my husband is more of a fan, and he said it was not only the best Thai food he's ever had, but it was one of the best meals, period, he's ever had in his life. It was as if each dish was the Platonic ideal of the dish. We can't wait to go back.
Accommodating Gluten-Free