The larb is a toss of juicy chicken, toasted rice powder, the fermented fish sauce that gives Padaek its name and chef Seng Luangrath’s favorite herb, lemongrass. Galangal — reminiscent of fresh ginger when young and more peppery as it ages — lends its spark to the salad as well. This is food that puts your taste buds at full attention. (“Alive!” I texted a note to myself the first time I ate it.) Pretty much anyone can sample the pleasure, since the salad, like a swath of dishes here, is also offered gluten-free and/or vegan.