RAÍCES Cocina de Autor

Go now. The New York Times is due for another article about Huatulco, and they for sure will “discover” this place, and then you’ll have to make reservations weeks in advance. We had the small restaurant mostly to ourselves early yesterday evening. Memorable in all ways—romantic atmosphere, warm service. And OMG the food. We shared creamy ceviche with grapefruit and the catch of the day appetizer—never did figure out what the fish was, but it was exquisite served with thinly sliced watermelon and onions. They made the chili sauce for us at the table gratis (it’s not on the menu). We ordered the guacamole, which was also prepared at the table. For mains we had the crisp-tender grilled octopus and also the delicately smokey tres moles, served with pounded chicken breasts rolled up with stuffing. Oh, and to drink we tried the elegantly simple mescalitas with lime. We were blown away by the combinations of ingredients and the explosions of flavor in all the dishes. Everything was so carefully planned and prepared. Beautiful dip of red chili salt on the cocktail rim. Globe glasses for water infused with rosemary. Massive square tray with all the chili sauce ingredients arranged in tiny bowls. So many choices! We went with green and red with all the trimmings (especially recommend the sesame seeds and grasshoppers). The garnishes were gorgeous. The octopus was served on a local fruit purée poured in a shallow circle framed with yellow petals—a perfect rendering of a sunflower. The tres moles came in tiny bowls made from hollowed out gourdes set atop woven basket stands to keep them from spilling! It was intimate and inventive—immaculate special in every way. They even accommodated my husband’s gluten intolerance with both knowledge and flexibility. This is next level dining in La Crucecita. Moreover, transplanted to Paris, New York, or anywhere you were lucky enough to find it, Raises Cocina de Autor would be a standout. Like I said at the beginning—go now.