(4.5 stars)
With vestiges of pink still streaking the pale autumn sky, we eschewed a hotel breakfast at Atura Albury in favour of a standout local cafe. Mr. Benedict has put together a breakfast menu where you will struggle to choose. The namesake eggs Benedict ($24.50) teamed with either apple cider-glazed ham hock and lemon mint pea smash or smoked salmon and lemon dill salsa verde, should be on your list. For me they were edged out by corn fritters ($23.50) flavoured with jalapeños, coriander, cumin, spring onions and Cheddar cheese. Being gluten free, they’re light on the stomach, which is lucky because they arrive under a quenelle of vividly green avocado and tangy beetroot relish in a ring of coriander yoghurt.
As we admired the architectural lines of Albury’s 1934 ambulance station through the cafe’s folding windows and breakfast bar, my dining companion took on the apricot and nut French toast ($22.50). With two thick slabs of fruit and nut bread, lightly tangy banana mascarpone and real maple syrup, the berry compote—though eye-catching—was probably overkill. Code Black Coffee, from Australia’s coffee capital Melbourne, was enjoyable in a small cappuccino ($5) and a large latte ($5.50). They’re using a strong roast throwing dark chocolate and macadamia called My Ex-Wife, that’s perfect for milk-based coffees.