project 281 in brunswick is a masterclass in how to run a cafe. the staff are ridiculously good - fast, professional, and always up for a chat. the turnover here is low, and it shows. they actually know the menu, they work like a team that has been together for years (because they have), and they are hyper-aware of food allergies. more than once, i have forgotten to ask for gluten-free, and their habit of repeating the dish when they serve it has saved me from myself. the vegan options are also numerous and delish.
the food is unreal. the eggs on rice is hands-down the best value breakfast in melbourne. the breakfast benny nails that rich-but-balanced sweet spot. the gluten-free bread is so good i would order it even if i could eat the regular stuff, and you can get nearly anything on rice instead of toast anyway. the chorizo eggs with whipped feta are absolute sybaritic luxury, and then there is the steak sanger - even if you’ve had it before, it still manages to surprise you. the human brain cannot fully hold the memory of that sandwich, so every time feels like the first.
the space itself is stunning - open and airy without feeling cavernous, brutalistically beautiful, full of big, fat, stupidly healthy plants. when it is raining, it is magic: all that glass, all that concrete, and the sound of rain pounding the roof while you chew contentedly. there is also a courtyard area, perfect for a sunny brunch or a quiet moment with a coffee. tucked away but still part of the action, it has that rare balance of being open yet intimate.
and the coffee? obviously, it is good, this is brunswick, but project 281 roasts their own beans in-house, and you can taste it. smooth, rich, never bitter. so good, i always get a second cup, sometimes decaf, just to prove to myself it is not the caffeine talking.
the location is also bonza. right off sydney road, a hop, skip, no need to jump from the number 19 tram. two minutes from brunswick station. and if you are driving, there is cheeky parking at woolies across the street.
if you want a cafe that gets everything right - staff, food, coffee, atmosphere - this is it.